 Head for Prague’s Jewish quarter for a taste of the real Czech capital
Prague is a such a tractable city that you could in theory stay anywhere and have a good time, from the famously vertiginous castle on the west bank of the River Vltava to the “beyond” of Vinohrady. It still pays to know where to stay and where not to stay, however. 1989 is a long time ago, and the initial flurry of redevelopment on either side of the Charles Bridge has hardened into semi-larcenous tourist tat. You’ll end up there on the first night searching for a decent restaurant, and despite a hundred choices you’ll go home disappointed – especially if you fall for the old trick of wanting native bohemian fare, which amounts to another pile of potatoes and overcooked meat flavoured with ubiquitous peppers. It’s not authentically anything, and certainly not worth the large pile of euros it costs these days.  Walk ten minutes to the north, however, and all is transformed in the district known as Josefov, the old Jewish quarter. At the very point where the Vltava narrows and deepens on its great sweep to the east, Prague itself is distilled into authenticity. The buildings become simpler, even if they have been restored, the density of quietly excellent French brasseries increases, and the authentic Czech cuisine of 2007 – Italian – is everywhere on offer in a splendid array of top-notch restaurants.
Proving the total hipness of Josefov is the presence of Prague’s two finest hotels, Josef and Maximilian. Both owned by Austrians Christian and Rudolf Ploberger, they are design hotels, yet they succeed in spite of what that label might imply. Yes, there are some funny plastic chairs that have to be admired rather than sat in, and yes, they’re places of cascading glass and light, and yes, the free high-speed internet has become standard in any decent hotel, not just the design brigade – but the experience surpasses the look, we guess because of the underlying principles of Austrian service, which should not be taken for granted in middle bohemia.  The overwhelming experience at these hotels is one of comfortable luxury. The Philippe Starck bathtub doesn’t lacerate you, and the TV remains operable by those with Luddite tendencies. The Maximilian is the newer of the two, having been completely reconstructed and reopened in early 2005; the Josef, however, was a ground-up experiment rather than a restoration of an older building, so in some respects retains the edge. The reality is that each has its strengths, and the perfect stay would take in both. The breakfast room at the Josef is particularly lovely, looking out across a winter garden in a courtyard. The Maximilian has the Sabai Massage Studio, where you can go for traditional Thai massage or to experience the calming effects of the Dead-Sea-brought-alive-again floatarium. Conferences of up to 50 attendees work brilliantly in the Josef – and the room rates are pretty good too, starting from €183 for a single at the Maximilian. Book ahead though: apart from January, occupancy rates are in the nineties, proving that clean modernity trumps baroque excess.
www.hoteljosef.com
www.maximilianhotel.com TEN THINGS TO DO IN PRAGUE IN AN HOUR 1 Walk to the Old Town Square (Staromestské Námesti) to observe the spectacularly eerie 14th-century astronomical clock, or Orloj. It tells not only the local time but also the Babylonian and Zodiacal time, while a skeleton rings a bell and mechanical apostles look on. 2 Next, cross the square to climb up to the belfry of the beautiful baroque St Nicholas Church (completed in 1735) for one of the best views of the city and the countryside beyond. 3 Leaving the square, step into the Mucha Museum and take in the poster collection of famous Czech art nouveau artist Alfons Mucha (1860–1939). 4 Down the street, don’t miss the newly reopened House of the Black Madonna (34 Celetná Street), designed by Josef Gocár, which houses the excellent Museum of Czech Cubism. 5 Stop for hot milk with rum and Bohemian honey at the museum’s Grand Café Orient, one of the finest in Prague. Closed for 80 years when cubism fell out of vogue, this opulent eatery will transport you back in time with its original marble and brass features.  6 On the way out, pause next door at the deeply stylish Kubista and pick up a pair of reproduction cubist coffee cups or order a zebra-print cubist sofa.
7 Then take a quick look at Powder Tower, which was the gateway to the Royal Route and used for storing vast quantities of gunpowder in the 17th century. 8 Walk across the extraordinary statue-laden Gothic Charles Bridge, which connects the Old Town and Malá Strana. It is said that egg yolks were mixed with the mortar to make the bridge strong. 9 Stroll up to St Vitus Cathedral (Hradcany). The spiritual symbol of the Czech state was completed in the 20th century after 500 years of construction and houses the Crown Jewels. 10 Next door is the resplendent Prague Castle, once the seat of the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV (1316–1378). |