Many factors determine cognac's value, but the greatest is personal taste. By IAN WISNIEWSKI  Everyone knows that cognac is all about craftsmanship and sophistication. That's a great start, but understanding cognac's terminology can be another matter. Who knows that VS means a minimum of two years' ageing for this French brandy. VSOP means at least four years, while XO, Napoleon and Hors d'Age actually mean the same thing, at least six years' ageing.
Seeing the price is usually a more immediate message, with a typical refrain being 'you get what you pay for'. As age and rarity determine price that's a useful steer. But there's also plenty of variety among brands, so another vital factor is how much you value the  avour. This may be more animated and direct, or more complex and laid-back, depending on the age and house style. While cognac is traditionally sipped neat, VS and VSOP are increasingly used in long drinks and cocktails. And as cocktails naturally encourage experimentation, a whole new crowd that might otherwise avoid the category is discovering the range and refinement that cognac can offer. DISTILLERY Hine VSOP €€€
Epitomising elegance, Hine VSOP delivers rich fruitiness including prunes and apples, together with hints of vanilla, crème brulée and honey, balanced by underlying dry oak. Hine VSOP only uses grapes from Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne. These two regions within the Cognac appellation (which comprises six individual regions) are renowned for producing the most sophisticated results. |  | Remy Martin XO Excellence €€€€€
Also drawing exclusively on the same two illustrious regions, Remy Martin XO Excellence combines richness with freshness on the nose, yielding an elegant sequence of vanilla and fruits including figs and plums, with mellow cinnamon, and a garnish of oakyness. It's a perfect appetiser for a palate that delivers an equally indulgent range of avours. |  | Hennessy XO €€€€€
Hennessy XO was initially created for the personal enjoyment of the Hennessy family and friends. Fortunately we can all now have this experience. Rich, enticing aromas lead to a complex, luxurious palate that includes a great rapport between dried fruit and a mellow blend of spices. The finish balances richness with dryness, lingering oakyness and dried fruit, which creates a lasting and fulfilling memory. |  | 
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