Key areas
Beirut is perched on an isthmus jutting out into the sea on a breathtaking sweep of the Mediterranean coastline. It is a bewildering, exciting composition of cultures and faiths. The centre of the city is the rebuilt Downtown area, which comprises the Parliament building, the Banking district, numerous restaurants, shops as well as historic archaeological sights and the largest number of mosques and churches concentrated in a single area. To the east are the hip residential areas of Gemaizeh and Achrafieh, packed with bars and restaurants and many traditional Lebanese houses with their arched windows and red tiled roofs. Monnot Street in Achrafieh is the trendiest party area of the city. West Beirut offers the former pre-war shopping paradise of the city, Hamra, and the extremely fashionable neighbourhood of Verdun, as well as the lush, green campus of the American University of Beirut and the recently replanted pine forest – the major park of the city. Surrounding all is the Corniche, the wide shoreline promenade, full of charm and contradictions and Beirutis of all faiths, factions and ages walking, exercising, sitting and chatting. Downtown: Is the newly renovated downtown area that was totally destroyed during the war. It is filled with top international fashion shops and vast array of cafés, restaurants, bars, clubs and pubs. Great for a stroll day and night, in an almost surreal and hauntingly beautiful setting. Smoking chicha in the cafes here is a common pastime for many of the regulars. This is also the central financial district of the city; most of the major Lebanese and international banks have branches in this area. Achrafieh: Known as ‘East Beirut’ during the war, this part of town is now famous for its vibrant nightlife. Monot Street is the place to be at night, with hip bars, cool pubs, restaurants, clubs. It is a must for anyone interested in seeing the city come to life. Ras Beirut: This part of town can be divided into the areas of Hamra and Verdun, Raouche, Ain el Mreisseh, and Clemenceau. Hamra is the main street in Beirut, famous for its traffic and probably the busiest pedestrian street in the city. Full of high street shops and takeaways. The equivalent to London’s Oxford Street though on a much smaller scale is Verdun. It is upmarket and full of shops and famous labels including MAC and NEXT and so on.
Gemayzeh: This neighbourhood literally exploded in 2004 with a bevy of bars, restaurants and live music joints and clubs springing up and old apartments hurriedly moved into by youth culture seekers and Beirut’s trend setters. Close to downtown, it remains a popular eating, drinking and living destination in Beirut though it is rapidly becoming gentrified. Beirut’s answer to Shoreditch.
Getting around
Taxis - The most popular form of transport is the Lebanese Servis taxi. These are old white Mercedes 200 cabs that will pick you up and take you anywhere on a particular route from the side of the road. Most trips cost 50p but some may charge £2.50 to take you to a specific place. Alternatively there are numerous private cab firms all over Beirut which will charge £2.50-£5 for journeys in and around Beirut. These are safer and more comfortable than Servis. Tube: Beirut has no underground service. Bus: Buses are numerous and the cheapest form of transport at just LL0,500 or half a dollar for any journey.
Shopping
Verdun in West Beirut is the number one shopping neighbourhood full of boutiques, independent labels and trendy cafés. For European and American brands like Morgan, Zara, Armani, and DKNY, Verdun is the place to be. Downtown Beirut, the new central district, has become the high-end shopping area in town. In the pedestrianised, cobbled streets riddled with open air cafes where you can find Gucci, Boss, Todds, Timberland, Karen Millen, Versace and more all vying for the best windows. You should take a look also at Aishti, Beirut’s answer to Harvey Nichols and as expensive as you can get. For a completely local and cheap shopping experience try the Syrian Sunday market every Sunday morning located in East Beirut adjacent to Beirut River. Here if you get up early enough you can find every type of antique, bric-a-brac, clothes, beads, and food amidst a very local crowd. Remember to bargain, otherwise you’ll be had. For local arts and crafts, mosaic-inlay trays, cutlery, leather goods, rugs, copper and brassware, gold jewellery, pottery, antiques, embroidered linens and lace, Beirut’s formerly happening district of Hamra in the West Beirut, remains the place to go.
Gifts to buy
The places to buy the best in local traditional clothing and artisana are Assyla in downtown’s Saifi Village (Tel: 01746279), Artisan du Liban, in Hamra (Tel:01364880) and the Souq al Barghout market in downtown’s Martyr’s Square during the month of August. Look out for traditional Lebanese outfits including arbeyas, shawls, shirts at Assyla; antiques and gold at the Souk al Barghout; and fantastic tablecloths, debki drums, tableware and oriental furniture in the Artisan du Liban.
Things to do
The National Museum on the Damascus Road is a must-see, full of Lebanon’s ancient Greek and Roman history. Here you will find Roman statues, Phoenician sarcophagi, and other historical artifacts. (01/612.298) Try Espace SD gallery in Gemayze for the best of Lebanese contemporary art. Three floors of sculptures, paintings, books, music and furniture they also hold regular openings of avant garde and modernist works; it’s a wonderful way to understand modern Lebanon through its art. The Baalbeck Festival which runs over July and August in the ancient Roman ruins of Lebanon’s eastern city is not to be missed. This year sees top acts including Placido Domingo and Massive Attack gracing the temples of Bacchus and Jupiter for late night concerts under the stars. Go to www.baalbeck.org.lb for more info. A wonderful weekend pastime is attending Beirut’s horse races in the hippodrome parallel to the French Ambassador’s residence. On any given Sunday you can watch the popular races take place, lay bets, and mingle with an incredibly local, vocal and partisan crowd. It is always worth a trip to the Casino du Liban, just north of Beirut, in Jounieh. From it’s cliff top perch, the casino surveys all of Beirut and remains as trendy as it was in the 1960s when everyone from Richard Burton to Grace Kelly graced its gambling rooms and restaurants. Extravagant but fun!
Excursions
Often taxi drivers are a great way of getting to know the city. Just hail one of them on the street and offer them $20 and they will take you all around town all day long. Obviously it helps to find one who can speak your language. Otherwise for trips outside the city to the beaches of the south and the north – Jiye and Byblos respectively – and to the ancient towns of Lebanon or the mountains of the Chouf try any of the below: Lebanese adventure Tel: 01 398982 for activities and outings including mountain biking, caving, sailing, hiking, camping, rafting, Adonis Travel and Tourism, Tel: 09 949599 Website: www.adonistravel.com For visits to cultural and archaeological sites in Lebanon in half-day, full-day, or multi-day tours. In addition to its tours, Adonis Travel and Tourism offers incentive programs and a 4x4 outdoor adventure tour. Nakhal Travel and Tourism Company Website: www.nakhal.com.lb
Tourist traps
Do not pay more than $10 for any city wide journey. Look out for numerous child beggars selling flowers and chewing gum.
Guides to convention centres:
Most major conventions happen in the big hotels which provide for and cater to convention events. The major exhibition hall where corporate events and fairs take place is the Beirut International Exhibition and Leisure Centre (BIEL) located downtown at the Beirut Port.